"and 100 more" (nth256)
03/30/2016 at 10:42 • Filed to: None
0
19|
"and 100 more" (nth256)
03/30/2016 at 10:42 • Filed to: None | 0
| 19 |
I’ve recently started to experience a transmission issue, that my google-fu has failed to find a reason for.
The subject is a New Venture T355 5-spd manual out of a 2008 Patriot. It has 126k miles. It’s on its second clutch and slave cylinder, otherwise untouched, save for the trans fluid (more on that in a sec).
It has started this issue where, if parked in neutral, there are times it doesn’t want to go into gear. Likewise, if I pull up to a stop while in gear and holding the clutch, there are times where it doesn’t want to come out of gear. While driving, it shifts fine, though it feels a bit more notchy lately.
Any ideas?
As to the trans fluid... a buddy of mine convinced me to try this bio-synthetic, non-petroleum trans fluid when he did my clutch. It has worked great (about 40k miles), but could it be at the end of its lubrication lifespan?
EDIT: I am a dumbass. I asked him, he said he kept the tranny fluid in when he did the job. So I’m just running trans fluid thats 126k miles old.
Thank you all for the responses!
RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
> and 100 more
03/30/2016 at 10:46 |
|
Sounds kind of like your synchro being gummed up and not wanting to slide, or something similar. If there are gummy things in your transmission, then yes - time to change the weird experiment juice is probably now.
crowmolly
> and 100 more
03/30/2016 at 10:48 |
|
More details on the fluid, please.
Running non-spec stuff can ruin your internal parts.
Does the issue happen both when the car has just started being driven and also after, say, 30 minutes on the road?
youshiftem
> and 100 more
03/30/2016 at 10:53 |
|
If I was to take a guess it would be a warped flywheel or a failing throwout bearing. I’ve had a few cars with this problem. It can be caused by aggressive driving or merely a badly manufactured part.
uofime-2
> and 100 more
03/30/2016 at 10:58 |
|
Does it go into gear fine with the engine off?
This half way sounds like your clutch isn’t fully disengaging, might need bled or adjusted.
Probably try new fluid first.
jimz
> and 100 more
03/30/2016 at 10:59 |
|
Sounds like the clutch release fork could be worn or bent, and the clutch isn’t fully disengaging. The SRT-4 (which I think had the NV T850) was notorious for wearing out the release fork by about 130,000 miles. In their brilliance they specified a cast iron release fork to press on the hardened steel pads on the throwout bearing.
iSureWilll
> and 100 more
03/30/2016 at 11:04 |
|
Since you’re having trouble getting in/out of gear, then either the clutch is not disengaged all the way, or something internal is broken/bent - like a shift fork.
TheNeonDriver - Now with More BMW!
> and 100 more
03/30/2016 at 11:12 |
|
The Neon SRT-4 had an issue with it’s New Venture 5-speed NVG T-850 manual . The throw-out bearing would wear out your clutch fork. This is a known problem, and was fixed by replacing the fork with an upgraded unit.
If you notice your not fully disengaging the clutch all the time, it may be the fork.
PSA. Don’t change this by yourself in your gravel driveway. Not fun
PS. See JimZ’s post for more information.
|
TheNeonDriver - Now with More BMW!
> jimz
03/30/2016 at 11:12 |
|
Arrrgggghh. Too late on my post!
brianbrannon
> and 100 more
03/30/2016 at 23:33 |
|
Keep it simple. Your clutch is most likely worn out
|
and 100 more
> brianbrannon
03/31/2016 at 10:37 |
|
I hope not. FWD clutch jobs are such a pain.
|
and 100 more
> TheNeonDriver - Now with More BMW!
03/31/2016 at 10:41 |
|
Right on, thanks for the info!
That said, the T-355 has an internal, shaft-concentric slave cylinder, so I can definitely eliminate “clutch fork” from the list. Still tho, its interesting to know that Neons came with an external slave.
|
and 100 more
> iSureWilll
03/31/2016 at 10:42 |
|
I wish you hadn’t told me those words...
|
and 100 more
> jimz
03/31/2016 at 10:45 |
|
Thanks for this info. TheNeonDriver referenced your post, said the same.
I can rule out a clutch fork, since the T-355 has an internal slave mounted on the input shaft. No fork.
Of course, it doesn’t help that the slave is made partially of plastic parts...
|
and 100 more
> uofime-2
03/31/2016 at 10:48 |
|
No, it will sometimes just not engage a gear, whether the engine is on or off. Pushing the car forward or backward a few inches (or letting it roll down a hill a little ways) seems to help the engagement issue.
Same for when it is in gear but won’t let go; letting it roll a little seems to help it disengage.
Yeah, I think I’m gonna start with fluids, and then pray that I don’t need to get the clutch serviced again.
|
and 100 more
> youshiftem
03/31/2016 at 10:50 |
|
I don’t like either of those options, so I’m going to pretend you said “go eat a donut and enjoy life”, in which case, thank you for the advice!
|
and 100 more
> crowmolly
03/31/2016 at 11:10 |
|
I’m getting info on the trans fluid; i might be remembering it wrong. I know he sells G-Oil, which is engine lube, but I can’t find a trans lube product on their website. Either way, G-Oil is some interesting stuff. I’ve run it a couple times, no complaints. It works about as well as full synthetic, and cost falls somewhere between full synth and regular dino. Also, for tree-hugging, it’s made from renewable resources - no petroleum. I’d run it again without hesitation.
http://www.getg.com/G-OIL_motor_oi…
As for running spec fluids, here’s my issue w/ that: the maker of the T-355 transmission (New Venture Gear) says to use MTF; Jeep says to use ATF in all their owners and shop manuals. Who do I trust? Jeep, who buys the transmissions in bulk, or NVG, who actually makes them? That said, I’m thinking of going w/ Redline or Royal Purple MTF next time.
Back to the issue: it happens cold or hot. It shifts fine when the car is moving, but the issue comes up when the car is stopped - either won’t go into gear, or won’t come out. I’ve mentioned in another reply, that manually rolling the car a few inches seems to help the gear engage.
|
and 100 more
> RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
03/31/2016 at 11:13 |
|
Thank you, I hope that’s all it needs.
|
crowmolly
> and 100 more
03/31/2016 at 11:33 |
|
They may be saying to use fluids that are similar enough. My T56 can run with either Dex III ATF or Synchromesh (or equivalent). But not Dex 6 or gear oil.
|
iSureWilll
> and 100 more
03/31/2016 at 11:37 |
|
I see your edit. Changing the fluid first would be my go to at this point. Its much cheaper/easier than pulling the trans out.